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Old Weinkauf Barn with beans
on Indiana 8, just east of La Crosse.
You Want to Take Forever.
Sunday, August 9, 2009
Howe, Indiana
Night. The day's road behind me. And questions, none of them new to any of us. What am I looking for in my passage over these inscrutable two-lane backroads? Why is it so impossible to express the exact nature of experience? What does it take to get it right?
We zipped and darted along 230 miles of highway today, me 'n Godzilla, traversing rural Indiana on a northeasterly path, entering the Hoosier State under hazy sunshine on Indiana 10 about 40 miles south of Chicago, crossing the Kankakee and the Yellow and the Tippecanoe Rivers, speculating on why the number 666 appeared twice on the odometer and another time on the gasoline receipt, and arriving by grace of a merciful Creator some nine hours later under billowy clouds at our lodging on Indiana 9 near Howe, just south of Michigan and not too far from tomorrow's destination of Ohio. Godzilla’s outside on the black asphalt of the Best Western. Here on the inside, my room has cool air, bright lights, running water, and wireless Internet.
Indiana 10 from the Illinois state line to Wheatfield caught me by surprise early this morn. I thought it would be lightly traveled, rustic, lined with green and golden fields of mature corn and beans. Instead I found hordes of weekend ramblers in vans and sedans and pickup trucks and motorcycles, sharing a gray and bumpy road lined with mile after mile of houses, businesses, advertising signs, and the haphazard clutter of ill-planned backcountry development gone wild and overboard.
No problem. At the first available egress I turned north, abandoning the route I had marked on the roadmap. Indiana 49 led to Kouts, which led to Indiana 8 and the quiet village of La Crosse — and just like that, it was noon, and the road was smooth, the traffic sparse, the crops spread like hand-crafted quilts across the hilly, undulating countryside. By the time me 'n Godzilla returned to the planned route some 40 miles later, Indiana 10 had become the magnificent backroad I thought it would be.
We spied a campus with grand red brick buildings, rich swards of green, soldier boys strolling the groomed trails, and a blue lake with white breakers raised by the stout wind. It was Culver Military Academy. There we found Winged Messenger.
The inscribed tablet at the foot of the statue reads:
Winged — Messenger
I am Eagle
Lifting my wings
I listen
To the thunder of the drum
Calling me to dance
To become the eagle.
My feet are set free
Raising my spirit into the sky.
My arms carry the wind
Across my wings . . .
I fear nothing,
My flight is towards the heavens!
Poem by Howard Rainer
American Indian Poet
Sculpture by Gary Price N.S.S.
After a while the road takes over, the passing scene becomes a mysterious and flowing panorama of sights and stories too vast to be grasped. You want to take forever, time enough for sure to stop and study every new wildflower and stream, every country lane leading somewhere you've never been before. In the villages you want to turn off the motor, get out among the abandoned old buildings and hopeful new shops, walk on the sidewalks, linger in the quiet parks with their towering trees and historical statuary, speak to someone in the know about this unusual architectural feature and that intriguing local landmark.
But you can't. Time's arrow soars ahead without mercy. You've got a set number of miles to travel before you can settle wearily into a rented bed in a rectangular room in a roadside inn. You've got somewhere to be on the ceaseless tomorrow.
Full Gospel Revival Center Indiana 9 on the southern reaches of Rome City
It was Sunday. The churches were alive with parishioners at worship. Maybe that's why the number of the beast was showing up all around me. 666. Maybe the Christians were claiming too many converts, unleashing a counterforce of demons to attack the newly saved and the freshly revived. I said my prayers for deliverance and pressed ahead. Godzilla roared fearlessly toward the north.
Now at midnight thirty I'm thinking of all I had to leave out of the narrative in the interests, you know, of time. Or the lack of it. One way or the other. You tell me. I will say that Indiana was beautiful today, the scenery succulent, the drivers, most of them, courteous and sane. No matter the perplexing questions. No matter the flight of the arrow. I'm glad me 'n Godzilla have gone lookin'. Tomorrow, Lord willing and the creek don't rise, we'll go lookin' some more.
Godzilla relaxes in the shade beside the Kankakee River in Indiana.
ebenezer@corndancer.com
To read the previous dispatch in the narrative,
kindly click the crow!
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The stories
linked below
form the narrative "Travels with Godzilla."
The Journey Ends:
Bye, Buck Bowles.
Dispatch Eighteen
Fayetteville,
Arkansas
Monday, August 31
Tobacco:
By the Hand of Man.
Dispatch Seventeen
Benton,
Kentucky
Thursday, August 27
Shy and Wonderful:
In Pursuit
Of the Wild Image.
Dispatch Sixteen
Bowling Green,
Kentucky
Wednesday, August 26
Mullens
It Wasn't the Flood.
Dispatch Fifteen
Williamson,
West Virginia
Tuesday, August 25
What Coal?
So Many Mountains
They're
Giving Some Up.
Dispatch Fourteen
Beckley,
West Virginia
Monday, August 24
Illustrated Man:
Pay Is Pay
On the
Honorable Path.
Dispatch Twelve
Morgantown,
West Virginia
Saturday, August 22
Which Road?
Counting the Lanes.
Dispatch Eleven
Bel Air,
Maryland
Friday, August 21
An Easy Puzzle:
Shade Drenched,
Flat and Tidy.
Dispatch Ten
Seaford,
Delaware
Thursday, August 20
Sea Cruise:
A Fine Old Motor Vessel
Makes a Smooth Crossing
from Jersey to Delaware.
Dispatch Nine
Seaford,
Delaware
Wednesday, August 19
Mighty Joe:
From the
River Valley
To the
Sandy Pine Barrens
On a Road to Heaven.
Dispatch Eight
Vineland,
New Jersey
Tuesday, August 18
Sugar Hollow Road:
Not too Far
down the Way
from Mehoopany.
Dispatch Seven
Scranton, Pennsylvania
Friday, August 14
Lucky Stars:
Godzilla Wrestles
a Bear.
Dispatch Six
Scranton, Pennsylvania
Thursday, August 13
Erie:
Off Balance, Agitated.
Dispatch Five
Erie, Pennsylvania
Tuesday, August 11
Purpose:
Success and Fear
On the Sly Peripheral.
Dispatch Four
Kent, Ohio
Monday, August 10
Indiana:
You Want to Take Forever.
Dispatch Three
Howe, Indiana
Sunday, August 9
Army Truck:
Carry Me Home.
Dispatch Two
Watseka, Illinois
Saturday, August 8
Road Trip:
Go Fast.
Dispatch One
Muscatine, Iowa
Friday, August 7
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